I did have a reading of 15 volts from the alternator last week so I suppose it could caused the problem. I do not know if it was the crazy 100 degree heat or the damned alternator causing the problem. Last week when I tested it, it was at 5.8 volts. The service manual says that it will throw the code for high input voltage when it goes over 4.7v. I guess I will also check the codes one last time to see if the IAT code is still there. The one that is on the Mazda was a Napa rebuilt and I usually have good outcomes with Napa but I will never go with anything that isn't brand new or from the OEM manufacturer. The second replacement of the alternator I went with a Motorcraft rebuilt and it has lasted 8 years now. This has happened before on my wife's Ford Focus. I do not like buying rebuilt alternators and do not trust them. There is a slight whine coming from it as well so the bearings are probably going too. Tomorrow I am going to pull it off and have it tested and try to hunt down the receipt since it is only 2 years old. The alternator must be failing at the brushes and the regulator. As soon as the battery light comes on and the volts drop there is no longer a pull on the motor when at idle. Then at random the light goes off and the volts come up to the standard 13.8.Īlso when the alternator is charging correctly the rpms are falling down to 500 or less when it is at idle. What is happening is that every time the battery light comes on the voltage is dropping to 12.5 and then steadily declining. So I grabbed my volt meter and put it on the cigarette lighter and took it for a drive. Took it for a drive and I am still getting the same symptoms (battery light coming on intermittently). Next I checked the pins on the connector and bent them back some to make sure there was a tight connection. I feel robbed for sure.Īnyway I went through the wires and checked for continuity and everything was good. Anyway I can probably just sell it and get some of my money back we will see. Unfortunately the cheapest one was 52 dollars. Yeah I could not locate a IAT for that kinda price around here. ![]() This is very annoying to say the least since the money spent on a new IAT could have been used for other things.Īnyway I just want to make everyone aware and later today track down the short or open circuit and get my darn car working like its suppose to. Troubleshooting 112 at Step 4 it clearly says that if the IAT is within range not to replace it but to continue in the steps. No Replace IAT sensor, then go to Step 7." Now if you go back to the service manual and check the code P0112 Step 4 also, which is IAT Low input voltage it says this: I have determined this has to be incorrect. Notice that it says that if the resistance is between the acceptable range it says to replace the IAT. Yes Replace IAT sensor, then go to Step 10.
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